The Oregon Caves Chateau
Review

June 6-8, 2004

by Jess Stryker

The Chateau at Oregon Caves National Monument.

The Chateau at Oregon Caves:

Dark menacing clouds were hanging in the sky as we left Grant's Pass, Oregon, driving toward Cave Junction and the Oregon Caves. By the time we reached Cave Junction and turned off onto the Caves Highway (rte 46), the sun was setting and it was lightly raining. We drove up the Caves Highway for what seemed like forever. It didn't help that I had misread the mileage and thought it was much closer than it was! Soon it was dark, and a steady rain was falling. As we continued up the road, the road got narrower and the turns sharper. Visibility due to the dark sky and rain was limited to just a few feet in front of the truck and we were soon traveling at a mere 15 mph. I could tell by the look on Julie's face that she was getting concerned, we had been on the road for a long time with no signs, and we hadn't seen any lights or other cars for almost an hour. Were we still on the right road? Southern Oregon is known for it's unforgiving back roads that people get lost on, every few years someone gets stranded in the mountains far from a main road because they took a wrong turn.

The rain gave way to a combination of light mist and fog. We inched along, the curves in the road so sharp that even the peripheral light from the headlights couldn't illuminate the roadbed on the curves. Finally we saw a side road with a sign, so I backed up the truck and aimed my lights at it so we could see it. The sign was for Cave Creek Campground, and we sighed in relief- the campground was on the map and close to the park, so we were still on the right road! After a few more miles of twisting, narrow road we saw the Oregon Caves National Monument sign and found ourselves in the large day-use parking lot. We had been instructed to drive across the parking lot and take the service road to the Chateau parking lot. We found the service road and continued on, and after about a block we saw the hotel lights on our right. It was still raining and visibility was only a few feet. The road circled around the hotel, and I turned off on what I thought was likely the road to the guest parking. Instead I quickly found a picnic table in my way and realized I had turned up a paved walking path, rather than a road! I quickly backed out and a few feet further through the fog we found the lobby doors of the Chateau. With great relief we parked and stubbled into the lobby out of the foggy mist.

This double-sided marble fireplace is the central feature of the Chateau lobby.

 

The lobby was quiet, warm and inviting, with a fire in the fireplace and several people sitting around the room reading. A huge stone fireplace stands in the middle of the room, and 30 inch diameter logs support the open-beam ceiling. Wood paneling, subdued lighting and wood furniture finish off the room decor, giving it a very comfortable and unpretentious feel. The gracious clerk at the desk welcomed us and checked us into our room, number 210, on the second floor. We grabbed our suitcases and walked up the rustic wood grand staircase to the second floor.

Our room was simple, with a fairly large bathroom. The bathroom fixtures appeared to be original, or at least close to original. The room was very clean with a queen bed, dresser, chair, and a small lamp stand. All the furniture was antique Monterey furniture, with a early California/Spanish style. The walls were painted a mottled brown color and the bright orange shag carpet gave them a orange brown glow. The room was a corner room, so we had two windows. We unpacked, had a couple of cookies we had brought with us and then went to bed.

Room 102 at the Chateau (this is not the room described above). Not sure why I didn't take photos of our room. It probably was too messy!

 

The next morning we were able to see out the windows, and realized that although we were on what is officially the 2nd floor, there were actually 4 floors below us! As we looked out the window we were looking into the foliage of the trees which were growing from the creek bed about 45 feet below our window. We headed downstairs and had breakfast in the Caves Diner, which was 2 floors below our room on the courtyard level of the Chateau. The Diner windows look out on a large courtyard with a pond and waterfall. Very pretty, even in the rain. The Diner maintains it's original 1937 appearance, with counter seating and chrome steel swivel chairs with red or brown vinyl seats. The only thing not original here is the flooring, the original hardwood floors were damaged in a flood and have been replaced with linoleum. We had an excellent breakfast. The menu includes all the usual breakfast items of a typical coffee shop.

The Caves Diner is on the courtyard level of the Chateau. It was added in 1937 and retains it's original look. The waiter talking with Julie is Paul, one of the friendly employees at the Chateau.

 

Most of the food served at both the Caves Diner and Chateau Dining Room is of local origin. The concessions for the Caves are operated by Oregon Caves Outfitters, which is part of the local Illinois Valley Community Response Team, a non-profit organization that works to improve the local economic and social conditions. Thus to the extent possible they obtain all supplies locally. Buffalo meat comes from a local ranch, trout from a local fish farm, and locally grown vegetables are used when possible. We did find that they were often out of some items on the menu, both in the Diner and dining room, this may be because we were there mid-week following a busy weekend, but also the attempt to buy local, and the minimal number of guests may result in shortages at times. We found it pays to have a "second choice" item in mind before ordering. The gift shop in the Chateau also sells a lot of local products.

After breakfast we took a tour of the caves, looked around the Historic District buildings, and took a lot of photos of the Chateau and the surrounding area. Lunch was again at the Caves Diner, where the menu features Buffalo burgers, beef burgers, salads, soups and a large assortment of sandwiches.

Soda straw formations in Oregon Caves.

 

It finally stopped raining after lunch so we put on our hiking boots and hiked a few of the trails around the Chateau. There are several well-maintained trails that meander through the National Monument, they vary in length and difficulty. Many of the trees and shrubs around the Chalet and Chateau buildings are labeled with small signs telling the plant name.

The Trout Pond and waterfall.

Dinner was at the Chateau Dining Room which is next to the gift shop on the same floor as the Caves Diner. Along the back wall of the dining room large picture windows look out on the forested canyon. Some of the water from Cave Creek has been rerouted into a rock channel that flows right through the dinning room, creating a pleasant, relaxing trickling sound. The food was excellent, artistically arranged on the plates, and local wines were served. Other diners seemed equally pleased with their food. The menu includes steak, trout, salmon, and chicken entrees.

The dining room windows look out at the canyon below the Chateau. The windows are 3 floors above the creek bed, so you get a bird's eye view from up in the trees.

 

The next morning we reluctantly said goodbye to the staff, many of whom we had gotten to know by name in just our short stay. Our stay at the Chateau was very enjoyable and peaceful. All of the staff were very friendly, and most had a story to share. The atmosphere for our mid-week stay was very relaxed and laid back. A great vacation!

Planning Your Visit:

The Chateau at Oregon Caves is a historical lodge. Staying here is like stepping back in time to a different age. This hotel is almost 100% original with few upgrades. You should be prepared for a historic (that means old!) hotel that does not meet the latest standards. Rooms are simple, many would consider them primitive. The facilities are old, I suggest you take the virtual tour and look closely at the rooms. If what you see doesn't appeal to you, then you might want to stay the night in Cave Junction or Grant's Pass. While a day visit isn't the same as staying the night, you can get a good feel for The Chateau by walking through it and enjoying a lunch and/or dinner here.

Reality check: You are about to step back in time! There are no telephones or televisions in the rooms. Heat is by steam radiators, and like all steam systems the pipes moan, groan, bump and clunk. The walls are thin, I suggest ear plugs if you are a light sleeper. You can generally request a specific room when making reservations by phone. Quieter rooms are numbers 210 and 211, they do not have other rooms above or below them and are isolated by closets or bathrooms from the other rooms, there are no shared walls by the beds. Rooms 204 and 205 are equally isolated but do have rooms below them, but not above. All four rooms just mentioned are corner rooms with multiple windows and great views of the forest. The Chateau does has a fire sprinkler system, which is important in a old wood frame hotel like this one. No air conditioning, but it is seldom needed as nights tend to be cool. Just open a window and cool the room the old fashioned way. In-room amenities consist of an ice bucket and drinking glasses, also the basic soap, shampoo and clean white towels. If you want a hair dryer bring one with you. There are no in-room appliances, no in-room coffee. Watch that you don't overload the electrical circuits if you bring your own personal care appliances.

Contacts:

The official website for the non-profit Oregon Caves concessioner (lodging, gift shop, dining room, deli & the Caves Diner) is: Oregon Caves Outfitters . Open May through October, check with them for the exact dates. Reservations on-line or phone: (541) 592-3400.

From October through May (when the Cafe is closed) snacks and beverages are sold at the Park Visitor Center bookstore.

Visitor facilities are also available in the community of Cave Junction.

Camping:

There are two national forest campgrounds nearby, Grayback and Cave Creek. Minimal services. Cave Creek Campground can't accommodate large vehicles.
Cave Creek Campground
Grayback Campground

There are several private campgrounds around Cave Junction.

Getting there:

Allow an hour for the drive from Cave Junction to the Oregon Caves, allow more time if raining, foggy, or after dark.
Trailers are not allowed on the final few miles of the road, a storage area is provided for them at the Illinois Valley Visitor Center in Cave Junction or the Grayback Campground.

The nearest airport with regularly scheduled air service is the Jackson County Regional Airport in Medford, Oregon. Rental cars are available at the airport. The caves are a 2 hour drive from Medford.

Click Here for a virtual tour of the Chateau.

Index of Oregon Caves National Monument webpages:

References- Websites

Oregon Caves National Monument. The Official National Park Service website.
Architecture in the Parks- Oregon Caves Chateau An excellent historical piece on the Chateau by the Park Service.
Cultural Landscape Report This is an excellent, in-depth report on the historical buildings and landscape or Oregon Caves. Lots of historic photos. By Landscape Architects Cathy Gilbert and Marsha Tolon of the National Park Service.
Floor Plans of Chateau & Chalet Click on the link at left, then enter "Oregon Caves" into the search box. This will give you links to copies of the floor plans for the historic buildings at the Oregon Caves, as well as photos of the old guest cabins take prior to their removal. Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division, Historic American Buildings Survey or Historic American Engineering Record. Chateau Accessibility and Safety Study Prepared by Architectural Resources Group, 2006. Primarily recommendations for repairs to the building, this document also contains a brief history with time line and a good description of current conditions of the Chateau. Note: large file size- 8.9 mb.

References- Books

Specific to Oregon Caves:
Domain of the Caveman: A Historic Resource Study of Oregon Caves National Monument: A Historic Resource Study of Oregon Caves National Monument Written by the Park Historian for Oregon Caves. If you're interested in the history of the Caves & Chateau I highly recommend this book. It is one of the books in my collection.
Awesome Caverns of Marble in the Oregon Caves National Monument: Documentary

Books on other NPS Rustic Buildings, & Landscape:
Patterns from the Golden Age of Rustic Design: Park and Recreation Structures from the 1930's. By Albert H. Good. Hundreds of descriptions, sketches, and historic photos of classic park structures, from fire pits to lodges and everything in between!
Great Lodges of the National Parks: The Companion Book to the PBS Television Series. By Christine Barnes. Excellent coffee table book with gorgeous photos.
Dining at Great American Lodges: Recipes From Legendary Lodges, National Park Lore, Landscape Art, Music by the Big Sky Ensemble. By Sharon O'Connor. Recipes for famous dishes from the lodges, photos of food, and photos of the lodges. Includes a CD of traditional American songs.

Help!

If you notice any errors on this page, or have additional information you would like to share, please let us know. Write to Jess at the email address below. If reporting an error it really helps if you can be as specific as possible, and if possible, please give us the name of the page with the error.

Know of a historic hotel or lodge we should include?

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Historic Hotels & Lodges